Most of it will soak in, and then I wipe it all off nearly dry. That's some gorgeous grain on that poplar! Re: Natural Finish for Poplar Well...if you don't want it to yellow then rule out pretty much anything with an oil base, although tung oil is more reasonable than BLO. Tung oil finishes that start with polymerized oils or tung oil preparations are best applied in the fat over lean principle: thinned pure oil is applied to deeply penetrate the surface, to fill pores. After the finish is dry, I sand lightly by hand with 320 grit sandpaper. This is where most folks go wrong with it, they don’t wipe it dry enough and any thick spots won’t dry right. Tung oil hardens upon exposure to air (through polymerization), and the resulting coating is transparent and has a deep, almost wet look. I think any oil-based finish will really bring out the grain but I like the look of this table finished using Waterlox: This is the best looking poplar build I've ever come across (not mine): [4] The word "tung" is etymologically derived from the Chinese 桐 tóng. Press J to jump to the feed. Agreed with your first statement - my first thought was "best stain is a dark one to hide it!" It has been a bit nippy the last couple days but we are thawing out fine. I like to start sanding at 220 grit on the wood if it’s pretty smooth. When I sand, I set up a work surface right in front of a nice (powerful) exhaust fan. I know that sounds like time and it is, but there aren’t many finishes that take so little equipment to apply and feel so nice to touch. Tung oil is typically found as a mix in most commercial products. Tung oil is the "oil" mentioned in the oil-paper umbrella,[citation needed] which is used to protect the paper from getting wet, and to make the umbrella waterproof. Straight oil is then applied moderately to adhere to the surface and provide a good base for the thick gloss layers. Naphtha works well in spray-on applications in well-ventilated studios. I have seen folks do multiple coats in one day and, while I appreciate their effort, it really dissolves the previous coats and thus takes longer than just letting it dry. It seems like it would need to be it applying a clear finish. When applied in many fine/thinner coats over wood, tung oil slowly cures to a matte/light satin look with slight golden tint. Since tung oil has become popular as an environmentally friendly wood finish, some products labelled as "tung oil" are actually blends containing other oils, varnishes, solvents, or chemical driers, and may even containing no tung oil at all[12] Products labeled Danish oil may be tung oil or they may be polymerized linseed oil.
Rags soaked with tung oil can spontaneously combust (burst into flame).

Raw tung oil tends to dry to a fine, wrinkled finish; the English name for this is gas checking; this property was used to make wrinkle finishes, usually by adding excess cobalt drier. On the first coat of oil (while wearing gloves) I like to soak the wood well with the Tung Oil and let it set for about 10-15 min.
It just wipes on, dries overnight and doesn’t require a sprayer. I'd be thinking along the same lines. Again beware of your rags, spontaneous combustion is not normally explosive, it just happens after you leave the shop in most cases. Ulrich Poth, "Drying Oils and Related Products" in Ullmann's Encyclopedia of Industrial Chemistry Wiley-VCH, Weinheim, 2002. Also enjoying your updates on the mesquite table. I would expect a good oil finish to take two weeks to properly build up. [citation needed] Second, after it cures (5 to 30 days, weather/temperature related), the result is a very hard and easily repaired finish, so it is used on boat decks and now on floors. There are oil based stains, water based stains, water and alcohol based dyes, gel stains, etc. I don't know much about this. Dilute it with mineral oil, maybe? They are especially sensitive to autoxidation, which encourages cross linking of neighbouring chains, hence hardening of the base resin. Copyright © 2020 Ploughshare Institute for Sustainable Culture. That's some gorgeous grain on that poplar! I was thinking tung oil maybe?

It is claimed to be less susceptible to mould than linseed oil.[11]. An oil finish penetrates the wood fibers and hardens inside the wood so the surface of the wood is still what your fingers feel, and however fine you sand at this point will determine how nice your finish will be.

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